Of rotten apples and toxins in the food basket

The Maggi fiasco has shed light on other food adulterants crowding our plates

It’s been more than a month since the controversy erupted over Maggi noodles, following allegations on the presence of elevated levels of lead and flavour-enhancer Monosodium glutamate (MSG) in the product.

Far from being resolved, the controversy has left a trail of questions on packaged and natural foods, its contaminants and related health impact, and the systems in place to catch and recall faulty products.

Consumers may be bewildered by the different verdicts coming in from States and countries on the safety of Maggi noodles, even as India ordered the product off market-shelves. But as the story now unravels in the Courtroom, some clarity may emerge from this exercise.

Overshadowed by the regulatory proceedings though is another ingredient in the soup, with ramifications across the food basket.

Source of the matter

“What has not been nailed is how lead was found in the product,” says Amit Sengupta of Jan Swasthya Abhiyan. “Is it from the manufacturing process or raw materials used in the product? And doesn’t that raise the possibility of similar contaminants in other products as well?”

He tells us that heavy metals like mercury and lead, even in small dozes, are known to accumulate in the body affecting the intellectual development in children and the immune and nervous systems in adults.

“Industry and regulatory surveillance needs to be increased on other such contaminants as well, including pesticide residues, antibiotics used in food (poultry/ honey) etc.” “Processed food by its very nature concentrates contaminants and needs to be regulated, as it includes additives, preservatives, taste-enhancers etc,” explains Sengupta.

Resolving the noodle controversy and pinning down the lead-source becomes crucial in shining a light on practices involving other food products. Common lead sources include paint, plumbing, water, and even the flour-mills that grind the raw material for noodles, observe industry and regulatory experts.

Dangerous levels

On pesticide residue, a recent study by the Agriculture Ministry monitoring this nationally found 509 of the total 16,790 samples having pesticide residue above the Government-mandated permissible limit.

The samples included vegetables, fruits, spices, red chilli powder, curry leaves, rice, wheat, pulses, fish/marine products, meat and egg, tea, milk and surface water. “Though the contaminated samples accounted for 3 percent of the total, when it comes to food, such a risk should not to be taken,” says an agricultural expert.

“It is early stages for fruits and vegetables, but the Government needs to undertake sample studies from different regions to understand the existing lay of the land in terms of water and soil contamination etc,” says Sengupta. It can then make the broader changes in agricultural, storage and transportation practices from where contamination arises, he adds.

With packaged products, the responsibility lies with the manufacturer to ensure that food ingredients are free of contaminants, from source to the product sold to the consumer. 

Ubiquitous lead

Standing by the safety of its product, Maggi-maker Nestle gives a broad explanation on the lead presence.

“Lead occurs in the earth’s crust and is present in air, soil and dust,” the food-maker says. It goes on to add, “atmospheric lead from industrial pollution or leaded petrol can contaminate food through deposition on agricultural crop plants, soil lead can be the result of inappropriate applications of pesticides, fertilizers or sewage sludge.”

As a result, international standards allow limited levels of lead in various foods. “Low levels of lead in food may be unavoidable, because of the ubiquitous nature of lead in the modern industrial world. However, following good agricultural and manufacturing practices can help minimise lead contamination of foods,” it agrees.

“This being the ground reality, India needs infrastructure for an efficient product recall system, where a product can be recalled even on the suspicion of contamination,” says Amit Khurana, Programme Manager (Food safety and toxins), Centre for Science and Environment. “Lead is not any odd metal, it is a toxic metal on the lines of mercury,” he adds.