Fake cinnamon floods Indian market as authorities drag feet over regulating its import and sale
Information
technology professional John Alexander, 58, had diabetes for 15 years.
About two years ago, he shifted to a widely accepted Ayurvediac therapy
of consuming cinnamon to control his blood sugar levels. In the course
of time he developed an abnormal liver. Doctors could not figure out the
cause of his disease as his diet and lifestyle did not warrant such
problem. His wife, Mary, looked up for information on the Internet and
realised that the cinnamon Alexander was consuming could be the culprit.
There were reports saying a harmful species of the spice was being sold
in the name of cinnamon. “John stopped taking cinnamon the day we read
the articles. In three-four months his liver tests showed substantial
improvement,” Mary says.
Cinnamon is a must spice in an Indian kitchen, be it for preparing
the famous Hyderabadi biryani and desserts or spicy curries. It is also
an important ingredient in the Ayurvedic medicines. Apart from lowering
blood sugar levels, cinnamon can help reduce cholesterol levels
significantly, fight nausea and prevent arthritis.
However, what is primarily available in the Indian market in the name
of cinnamon (Cinnamomum zeylanicum) is its alter ego—cassia or
Cinaamomum cassia. This fake cinnamon contains a chemical, coumarin,
which is used for making rat poison, according to the German Federal
Institute of Risk Assessment. Coumarin can damage liver and kidneys in
humans even if taken in relatively small doses. The daily tolerable
intake of coumarin is 0.1 mg per kg of body weight and it is estimated
that one kilogram of cassia powder contains 2.1 to 4.4 g of coumarin,
says the institute. In September 2012, it issued a note, advising people
to stop using casssia.
Source: Food Safety and Security Authority of India
Traditionally both cinnamon and cassia have been used worldwide as
spices and for manufacturing perfumes and cosmetics. But with studies
showing health problems caused by cassia, several countries have imposed
restrictions on its imports. So far, most European countries have
banned the use of cassia in food items, while countries like the US,
Germany and the UK import it only for making rodent poison.
India, the world’s leading spice producer, exporter and consumer, is
yet to act against cassia despite several studies documenting its
harmful effects. In 2010, the Indian Institute of Toxicology Research
(IITR), Lucknow, found that coumarin can damage liver and kidneys. “Oil
extracted from cassia leaf also contains 8 per cent of coumarin. It can
cause intestinal ulcer if consumed in large quantities,” says M
Ananaraj, director of the Indian Institute for Spices Research in
Kozhikode, Kerala. Cinnamon contains negligible amount (0.004 per cent)
of coumarin, he adds.
Absence of regulatory mechanisms also means the poisonous alter ego
of cinnamon continues to flood the Indian market. Though they do not
look identical, they have similar smell and flavour due to the presence
of chemical cinnamaldehyde. Consumers, and even retailers, unaware of
the fraud get easily duped. “Most people do not know what a true
cinnamon looks or smells like,” says a spice grower from Cochin who does
not wish to be named. “People prefer cassia as its smell and taste is
sharper than cinnamon. My wife insists on buying cassia saying it gives
more fragrance to food,” he adds.
Just words
FEBRUARY 1-2, 2007
Cinnamon farmers at the National Seminar on
Organic Spices and Aromatic Crops in Calicut, Kerala, highlight that the
imports of cheap cassia is harming their interests
February 26, 2007
A planter from Kerala, Leonard John, writes to
Spices Board, asking for intervention. The board replies that India will
face shortage of cinnamon if cassia import is banned
April 4, 2008
Spices Board writes to the Directorate General
of Foreign Trade (DGFT), raising concerns about health risks of cassia
and asking DGFT to list the spice as restricted item for import
March 4, 2011
Food Safety and Standards Authority of India
(FSSAI) issues a letter to ports, state governments and food testing
laboratories to analyse samples of cinnamon and cassia and see to it
that cassia is not sold as cinnamon
June 10, 2011
The United Planters' Association of Southern
India writes to DGFT and the Chief Public Information Officer of the
commerce ministry to strictly monitor and import consignments of cassia
for conformity of FSSAI standards and ensure that cassia is not sold in
Indian markets as cinnamon.
August 3, 2012
FSSAI brings out a manual with easy methods of
checking adulterants in food at home. The manual recognises cassia bark
as adulterant
March 22, 2013
In an RTI reply FSSAI informs that the issue of
health effects of cassia and coumarin has been referred to a scientific
panel |
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Traders are cashing in on this ignorance as well as the low price of cassia.
The import cost of a kilogram of cassia is Rs 35, while that of true
cinnamon is Rs 200. Retailers sell it anywhere between Rs 150 and Rs 600
a kg. In a letter to the Directorate General of Foreign Trade (DGFT), S
Kannan, director (marketing) of Spices Board wrote, “Since the price of
cassia is far below that of cinnamon, traders misuse and encash the
opportunity for their benefit by misdeclaration of the product.”
Little wonder that traders import more cassia than cinnamon.
P S Sreekantan Thampi, deputy director (publicity) of Spices Board,
says, the average production of cinnamon in India is 80 to 100 tonnes
per annum. This is miniscule compared to the annual demand of 12,000
tonnes. To meet this growing demand as well as for re-exporting cinnamon
after value addition, India imports about 10,000 tonnes of cassia and
200 tonnes of cinnamon a year, says Thampi. Cassia is imported from
China, Indonesia and Vietnam, while cinnamon is mostly imported from Sri
Lanka as Ceylon cinnamon.
Setback for cinnamon growers
Rampant substitution of cassia for cinnamon has left little demand
for the original spice. Its impact is evident in Kerala’s Kannur and
Malapuram districts, the biggest producers of cinnamon in the country.
Over the past decade, the area under cinnamon has reduced from 400
hectares (ha) to 280 ha in Kannur. In Malapuram, the area has reduced
from 80 ha to just 4 ha.
Leonard John, a cinnamon grower in Kerala, says production of
cinnamon in the country can be increased by banning the import of cheap
cassia. John and a group of cinnamon growers and activists in Kerala
have been demanding the ban since 2007. They have written to various
government authorities, including the Union Ministry of Commerce, Spices
Board and Food Safety and Standards Authority of India (FSSAI). In a
letter to Spices Board, the growers have questioned the import figures
of cassia cited by the board. A trader in Kanpur alone imports 9,500
tonnes of cassia. It is impossible that only 10,000 tonnes of cassis
enters the country annually, notes the letter.
Government drags feet
Following petitions by John and his fellow cinnamon growers, several
government agencies have acknowledged the health risks of cassia, but
the government is dragging feet over regulating its sale and imports
(see ‘Just words’).
In 2008 the Spice Board wrote to DGFT, asking it to list cassia as
restricted item for import. “We have also informed the Union Ministry of
Health and Family Welfare for taking necessary action,” says Thampi.
FSSAI has acknowledged that cinnamon and cassia are two different
plants and classifies cassia an an adulterant. Its website now mentions
the difference between cassia and cinnamon. In 2011, it wrote to all
food and health authorities to ensure that cassia is not sold as
cinnamon. But the sale of cassia as cinnamon continues unabated.
On February 2, John filed queries to FSSAI under RTI, asking the
reasons for the delay in taking action against sale of cassia. All that
FSSAI said in its reply, dated March 22, was that the authority is in
the process of uploading the harmful effects of cassia and that the
issue has been referred to scientific panel for analysis of coumarin’s
health impacts.
Talking to Down To Earth, a senior official associated with the
Spices Board said regulation of cassia should not be a matter of grave
concern as the quantity consumed by the Indians is very low.
But what about people like John Alexander who consume two spoons a
day? Lack of willpower among the regulatory authorities means even
though the harmful effects of cassia have been established, consumer is
left with no option but to buy it.