STORM IN A PLATTER

After the much reported stomach burst of a customer at a Gurugram pub, molecular gastronomy has come under the scanner. SHALINI SAKSENA speaks to chefs to bring you a perspective

Earlier this month, a young businessman at a bar in Gurugram consumed a cocktail from a glass chilled with liquid nitrogen. He felt ill and was rushed to the hospital where the doctors found that his stomach was perforated so badly that half of it had to be removed.

The incident sent shock waves in the food and beverages industry as there are quite a few restaurants that use liquid nitrogen to dress up their food and beverages.

For those who don’t understand what this chemical is all about here is some scientific information. It turns into vapour at room temperature. It is the liquefied form of nitrogen that is commercially produced by fractional distillation of liquid air. At normal pressure, liquid nitrogen boils at 77 K (-195.8°C). It was first liquefied on April 15, 1883, by Polish physicists Zygmunt Wróblewski and Karol Olszewski.

Chefs and mixologists the worldover have been using this liquid for sometime as part of molecular gastronomy which blends physics and chemistry to transform the tastes and textures of food. Its dictionary meaning is — the scientific discipline that studies the physical and chemical processes that occur while cooking.

According to Sudhir Nair, executive chef, Courtyard by Marriott and Fairfield by Marriott in Bengaluru, molecular gastronomy — its knowledge and its applications in its true essence — have been present in Indian cuisine for a long time. “The use of chemical agents to result in changes in the texture, taste and presentation of food is in practice since centuries. For example, the use of tenderisers in meats, the use of citric acid to make cottage cheese, the delicate art of creating foam in milk for makingNimish (Daulat Ki Chaat) and use of alkali to preserve the colour of green vegetables when exposed to heat.

"The list is long but it’s only a few decades back that this knowledge was consolidated by physicists and chefs of in the West. In India, we have already been using molecular gastronomy for a very long time,” Nair explains.

But in its modern avaatar, it has come into India only a couple of years back ever since people's tastes became experimental and they were open to trying something new every day.

There is lot of fun element and the guest gets to see something different and gets attracted. That’s why molecular gastronomy has gained popularity. But it comes with its side effects.

Even though liquid nitrogen is safe to use in food or beverages why should it not be consumed?

The most important point to keep in mind here is that liquid nitrogen must fully evaporate from the food or drink before being served. If this doesn’t happen, the result is that the guest will ingest it which is dangerous because it can severely damage the tissues in the mouth, oesophagus and the stomach.

How? When liquid nitrogen vapourises it turns into nitrogen gas causing pressure in the body and holes in the tissues. As the gas is extremely cold it can lead to frostbite.

Despite the fact that it is dangerous if not handled properly, it is commonly used in the food industry for freezing and chilling because it is more cost-effective when compared to traditional methods. It can chill large quantities of food in just a few minutes unlike traditional chilling and freezing methods which take hours. It is being used for freezing meats, fish, poultry, dairy and bakery products besides pasta, microwavable meals, fruit and vegetables. It also goes a long way in maintaining the freshness of packaged food products. Fresh fruits do not require freezing only chilling and so they are chilled cryogenically using liquid nitrogen. It is also used to lengthen product life.

Off late, as well all know, liquid nitrogen has become popular in retail food and beverage industry. And many opine that it is just a bag of tricks to add drama to the dishes.

But chef Nair tells you that it isn’t just a bag of tricks that the chefs carry to pop out an act on the dining table. “It’s more to do with delighting the patron with a balance of textures, taste and vision,” he says.

Agrees the pioneer of molecular gastronomy in India, Zorawar Kalra, founder and MD Massive Restaurants. “Molecular gastronomy is based on natural occurring things. It is an amalgamation of science and art. This is a unique modern way of cooking. Technically, even baking is molecular since one uses baking powder, it has to be baked at a certain degree and uses science. Whenever one uses science into the art of cooking it is molecular. The name has been given its name due to use of chemicals. One has to use basic rationale while using molecular gastronomy,” Kalra tells you.

He also says that there is no need to be scared of it; the same way one should not be scared of fire; the same way you have to respect every natural element.

Molecular and post-molecular is being done in some way or the other by most top restaurants around the world. It is, in a way, taking food forward. It is an innovative way for chefs to introduce sometime new so that guests can enjoy a unique dining experience. However, this needs to be done with a lot of discipline, restrain and training and using proper chemicals that are WHO approved.

“Just like one doesn’t put burning food in ones mouth, the same goes for something that is at freezing point — it is just the reverse. Unfortunately, while there is no way to find a standard or examination, the restaurant has an obligation and responsibility to make sure that the staff is well-trained and uses approved chemicals. One can’t see a video and think one has become a master and start dabbling in molecular gastronomy. A lot of training goes before the chef is allowed to use such chemicals. Do we allow a child to play with fire? No. The same applies to use of chemicals in foods. One must take basic care — usually the use should take place inside the kitchen, kept far away from the guest — all these things need to be taken care of before one even thinks of using them.

“Bartenders need to make sure that the guest doesn’t touch the drink as long as the vapors are still coming out. In fact, the guest should not be served such a drink to begin with. There is no need to be theatrical about it. While the guest should be careful, the responsibility rests with the restaurant to make sure that the guest is briefed about how he should consume such drinks,” Kalra asserts.

Dr Saurabh Arora, founder, foodsafetyhelpline.com tells you that there is so many changes taking place in molecular gastronomy — new approaches and techniques being used — that it is almost impossible for the regulators and helplines to keep track of them.

“Therefore, the responsibility rests with the restaurants. Basically, the food regulation has laid down that if a restaurant is using a novel method of cooking, they have to take approval. But most people are not aware of the procedures and licenses that they need to take — what techniques they can use and what additives can be used,” Dr Arora says.

Citing an example, he tells you that when one of his clients wanted to introduce a drink using liquid nitrogen, they found that there was no way they it could serve it as a ready-to-serve drink and the regulation was more using nitrogen as a freezing agent. Since the specification was not clear, the idea was dropped.

“The problem is that there is lack of safety measures, concern and enforcement and that is why incidents like the one if Gurugram bar happened in the first place,” Arora says. While the onus rests on the restaurant, the guest should also take certain precautions like not consume the drink if one sees some bubbles still left in the drink.

Rahul Kaushik, executive chef, The Westin Pune, Koregaon Park, feels that while this style of cooking doesn’t do much to enhance the taste, it does add to the overall component in a dish. “Though it doesn’t enhance the taste, it does improve the presentation. Let’s take an example. Take a thin slice of watermelon and grill it. If a picture of this is taken, one wouldn’t be able to tell that it is not bacon. In a similar fashion, one can use cottage cheese and put a spherical mango. From far, it will look like a poached egg. There is need to go beyond the use of just chemicals,” Kaushik says and warns that if one doesn’t know this science, it is better to not dabble in it to begin with.

“It is science and there is need to know when, how and where to use it. There are chemicals like agar agar (natural) that are safe. But many use emulsifiers like methylcellulose are not. This is not good for children and the elderly. Here science comes to play. One must know how such chemicals will react with different people,” Kaushik says.

It is not just the use of chemicals, there are dehydrators too which leech out the water from food and are part of molecular gastronomy.

“There are foams that can be created without using liquid nitrogen. There are alternatives available. This one can’t learn by watching a video or looking at others do it. This is because in a restaurant the executive chef may only show the junior staff how to do it a couple of times. But this is not enough. Each person who handles chemicals needs to undergo intensive training, Kaushik tells you adding that the style of cooking has to come properly to India where one has trained and disciplined chefs who know the art and not just a hand full of people.

Chefs like Sriram Aylur, director operations for Quilon (London) and Bombay Brasserie tell you that though he doesn’t practise and preach it, everything evolves — art, fashion. So does food. But unfortunately, cuisine has not been documented like fashion or art has been. But molecular gastronomy is part of that evolution.

“Some practioners want to push the boundaries and do so by doing something that is exciting and involves the use of chemicals. “Has there been enough research? I don’t think so, even though everybody claims so. I say this due to a lot of gut that comes from my conviction. Since they use a lot of chemicals there are two issues. First, what each of these chemicals can do. Each has a side-effect. Second, because there are so many chemicals being used, one doesn’t know they will react individually when a 10-course meal is being served,” chef Aylur says.

But this doesn’t mean that food should not evolve. “All arts, for its own existence and appreciation has to be relevant. To do this, there is need to do a few things. One, has to keep the ethos and the foundation in its truest spirit. There are many chefs who stick to the traditions which is important. Then there are progressives where you take the availability of the ingredients into account, look at the new techniques, keep the foundation but add to the repertoire. As chefs, it is our duty to take from this repertoire and add to it. Third, there are others who will take it to a higher and different level and this where the idea of modern and contemporary comes in. Then there is molecular gastronomy which is part of creativity,” Aylur says.

He also tells you that the onus of this practise lies in many layers and needs to start from the point where the chemicals are made.

“If one buys a medicine over the counter and it has an adverse effect. Who is to be blamed? You, the chemist or the manufacture? One has to see where it is coming from and there is need to have proper regulations. After all, a paanwallah wouldn’t sell medicine since there are regulations. There is need to have regulations for practitioners of molecular gastronomy. Once you have regulations, practise falls in place,” he tells you.

WHERE NITROGEN CAN BE USED

The Food Safety and Standards Authority of India (FSSAI) has permitted the use of nitrogen in the following food categories:

Fermented milks (plain) heat treated after fermentation: Nitrogen to be used as packing gas only, Recommended Maximum Level (RML) as per Good Manufacturing Practice (GMP).

Renneted milk (plain): Nitrogen can be used, RML as per GMP.

Sterilised and ultra-high temperature creams, whipping and whipped creams and reduced fat creams (plain): Nitrogen to be used as packing gas only, RML as per GMP.

Peeled/cut fresh fruit: Nitrogen to be used as packing gas only, RML as per GMP.

Coffee, coffee /coffee substitutes, tea, herbal infusions, and other hot cereal and grain beverages, excluding cocoa: Nitrogen to be used as packing gas only RML as per GMP. It can also be used in the ready-to-drink products and pre-mixes for ready-to-drink products only.

Fruit juices (fruit juices for industrial use, thermally processed fruit juices): Nitrogen can be used, RML as per GMP.

Vegetable juices (vegetable juices for industrial use, thermally processed vegetable juices, thermally processed tomato juice: Nitrogen (INS 941) can be used, RML as per GMP.

Concentrates of fruit juices (concentrated fruit juices for industrial use): Nitrogen can be used, RML as per GMP.

Concentrates of vegetable juices: Nitrogen can be used, RML as per GMP.

FOLLOW THE RULES

Liquid nitrogen must be used only in areas that are properly ventilated. Since liquid nitrogen has no odour or colour its presence cannot be detected easily.

The areas where liquid nitrogen is stored must have an oxygen monitoring system as leaking nitrogen can displace oxygen. When nitrogen becomes loose in the atmosphere, it creates a state of oxygen deficiency leading to suffocation. The oxygen monitoring system takes regular readings of the oxygen in the environment and if there is a deficiency workers have enough time to evacuate the premises.

Personnel handling liquid nitrogen must wear protective clothing including thick gloves like, closed tough shoes not canvas ones as those can absorb nitrogen gas. If workers accidentally get liquid nitrogen on their skin while manufacturing they will suffer severe burns.

Use only cryogenic storage tank or liquid cylinder for storing liquid nitrogen

When transferring liquid nitrogen prevent splashing and pressure build up

All personnel working with liquid nitrogen must be fully trained about handling it, using protective gear, knowhow to calibrate oxygen monitoring equipment and handle emergencies.

An emergency plan must be in place, including first aid measures.