Aug 19, 2012

Kitchen confidential


HYDERABAD: The steaming plates of starters and delectable desserts crowding buffets at most hotels in the city may not really be 'freshly' prepared as is claimed on the menu. With 'recycling' fast becoming the norm, hotels are routinely seen freezing meat in blast-chillers only to cut into it for the next one week or at times longer. Storing even sauces and spices beyond their expiry dates is also not unknown.

Checking these kitchens are Greater Hyderabad Municipal Corporation (GHMC) officials who themselves are ignorant of the rule book and go essentially by the appearance of the food, following their hunch on what is permissible and what is not.

Chefs at city hotels admit that stale food is often reheated just before service but note that it is permissible to do so. Even the oil that one would assume is poured out of a clean container, especially while shelling out a fortune at a swank star facility, may have travelled through many pots and pans.

"Recycling is a done thing in most hotels. After every large gathering or buffet service, several dishes are stored away to be used later. Apart from the salad which is usually made afresh each day at star hotels, all other items including 'daal', chicken (or other meat) and desserts are kept under refrigeration. They are brought out and heated as and when there is a demand," said a chef with a leading star hotel on condition of anonymity.

Hoteliers say it is routine to store food for later use. Roast chicken is often times served three days later with a fresh coat of seasoning. Similarly, a plate of sweets continues to make the rounds of the buffet until stocks are finally exhausted.

But chefs maintain that there is nothing questionable about the practice of recycling food. "We store cooked food at home too and do not think twice before eating it later. How does it become unsafe if done in a hotel," he questioned. Reputed hotels insist they are equipped with better technology and say that the rules of the game of hotel kitchens have undergone a sea change. The use of blast chillers, for instance, is now a common feature in most kitchens.

"Items like mayonnaise or sauce that has to be used repeatedly cannot be prepared just before service. Such products have to be stored for prolonged periods in appropriate chillers," said chef Smita Duggar of Masterchef India fame. She did, however, agree that city kitchens at times do ignore hygiene norms to use up stocks.

Hotel officials maintain that they adhere to stringent rules of hygiene and their food is far from being unhealthy or adulterated. Though chefs admit to refrigeration of edibles, both raw and processed, they argue that it's done in accordance with Prevention of Food Adulteration (PFA) guidelines.

"The PFA regulations (followed by hotels nationally) clearly allow storing of food. Only, the prescribed temperatures and storage procedures need to be followed. In fact, even the ISO 22000 norms followed internationally for quality management states that stored food if reheated at an optimum temperature is fit for consumption," explained Mandhaar Sukhtankar, executive chef with The Park, Hyderabad.

Broadly, cooked food stored at 5 degrees and re-heated at over 60 degrees before being transferred on to the plate is an accepted practice for regulatory authorities the world over. In the case of meat/fish, the heating temperatures are increased to about 73 degrees (approx). Even the time-span for refrigeration, as per these rulebooks, can range from 24 to 72 hours depending on which category — high risk or low risk — an item falls under.

Reiterating the safety factor, hoteliers argue how most star facilities conform to the HACCP (hazard analysis and critical control points) standards that prescribe the most effective food safety measures. "For several years now, we are operating in accordance with these norms. It is impossible, therefore, for our food to be anything but impeccably fresh and safe," said Indraneil Palit, chief executive officer of Speciality Restaurants of which Mainland China is the flagship.

GHMC, entrusted with the job of overseeing hotel kitchens, has no set rules of its own. "At the time of sanctioning a licence, the corporation does hand out a list of guidelines, but they are largely about disposing of garbage appropriately. It does not list any storage-related rules. In fact, even at the time of inspection (conducted once in six months) officials only look at how we are handling our garbage and if it is kept at a distance from our preparation area," said the owner of a popular restaurant in the city.

GHMC officials however rubbish all the food storage norms quoted by hotels and insist that the GHMC does not allow the freezing of food for even a few hours. "We are very particular about hygienic kitchens. No hotel is allowed to store food, especially cooked food," said L Vandan Kumar, additional commissioner, health and sanitation.

Sounding a word of caution he said that his team would soon be cracking down on other restaurants and bars across Hyderabad to bring to book all those found flouting norms.

No comments:

Post a Comment