Stay off monosodium glutamate, advice experts

KOLKATA: Monosodium glutamate - the flavour enhancer in most Kolkatan's "emergency meal" like Chinese takeaway, frozen fast food and even tomato ketchup - has split the world of doctors and chefs: Though it does make certain dishes more enjoyable, is it a risk worth taking? While researchers point to its potential carcinogenic effects, many of them maintain that having it in small quantities is safe. Restaurants insist customers who have a problem with MSG are welcome to request a meal free of the substance, but many eateries, even at Tangra, have no mention of the stuff on its menu. While the debate on its safety rages on, experts have one advice for the health-concious: "Better avoid it."

"According to the food safety act regulation, every advertisement for food package with added MSG must declare its presence and that it is not be consumed by infants below 12 months. Restaurants too, must declare the use of MSG so that customers have the option to avoid it," said a senior KMC official. However, this norm is not uniformly enforced. Over the years, though, some of the most popular restaurants have begun addressing this issue. Dipak Puri, owner of Trincas, said: "We stopped using MSG seven-eight years ago. It affects certain people more than others, but to stay safe, we stopped using it altogether. MSG enhances flavour but sometimes triggers palpitation or some other symptoms. There's no ban on MSG but if one has doubt about it, the best option is to ask while ordering."

Mainland China, on the other hand, mentions clearly on the menu that MSG is used and those who wish to avoid must inform the person taking the order. Rajesh Dubey, director, food production at Speciality Restaurants, said: "Some might have an allergic reaction or may suffer excess sweating or rashes. But one can't avoid MSG altogether. Everyday items like tomato, mushroom and fungus contain MSG naturally. Earlier, this was extracted and used as a flavouring agent. Now they are made chemically. In ready-to-eat food and dips as well as proprietary sauce (ready to use in cooking), and even in several European sauces, MSG is not declared. If u go through the fine lines carefully you'll find MSG in most tomato ketchup and chilly sauces. In extremely small quantity, MSG is not dangerous. But if the dose is increased by a gram or two, it could be. To be safe, we declare the presence of MSG and the option to avoid, especially for pregnant women and children."

Cancer specialist Chanchal Goswami pointed out: "MSG is widely used in Oriental cuisine. Some of its components are carcinogenic or may lead to brain degeneration. But one shouldn't be concerned if the consumption is limited. One isn't likely to have Chinese takeaway every day for years." Celebrity chef Shaun Kenworthy, too, sees nothing alarming. "Even salt in large quantities is bad for health. This debate has been on for the past 20 years. Excess consumption of anything will have an ill effect," he adviced.

However, NSCB Cancer Research Institute director Ashis Mukherjee cautioned restaurant-goers. "In the stomach, an acid-base balance is maintained. But MSG stops the acid created from being neutralized and accumulates hydrogen molecules, leading to formation of more hydrochloric acid. If MSG is frequently consumed, this can cause ulcer, which in turn may be followed by cancer. In a retrospective analysis, we found that glutamate can trigger obesity, eye damage, fatigue and chronic depression. In countries where MSG consumption is high, like China and Japan, the stomach cancer rates are very high. Just like the tobacco industry ran advertisement campaigns unchallenged for decades before it was conclusively established that smoking causes cancer, I'm afraid we are looking at a rerun," the doctor said.

Recent market trends don't show a hike in MSG sales in recent years. Spencer's Retail officials in fact said over the years, sale of MSG has declined significantly. Having MSG doesn't make it certain that there'll be health complications, say experts, but add: "Is the risk worth taking?"